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Passionate wine master

Wednesday, December 01, 2010

What鈥檚 the perfect career for someone with a thirst for both the logical exactitude of science and the nuanced sensory experiences of art? In the case of Melissa Gulker Stackhouse 鈥88: wine making.

At 17c起草社区 she studied psychology (鈥渘ot scientific enough鈥) and nursing (鈥渇or me, not creative enough鈥). After college she tried, among other things, working for a newspaper in Washington, organic farming in New Zealand and driving a tour bus in Alaska. Then, at the age of 28, came the aha moment: Attending a wine tasting, she 鈥渄iscovered that you could go to school to learn to make wine,鈥 Stackhouse said. 鈥淚 knew that鈥檚 what I wanted to do.鈥

While her degree from the University of California-Davis in viticulture and enology鈥攇rape growing and wine making鈥攕et a necessary foundation, Stackhouse said it was hands-on work in the vineyard, the cellar and the lab under a skilled mentor that made her confident in her craft. And it was more than knowledge that she gained.

鈥淎n apprenticeship is also about gaining a certain level of composure. Harvesting decisions are dependent on the weather and can be pretty stressful.鈥

In fact, Stackhouse describes her first year as winemaker at La Crema鈥攐ne of the Kendall Jackson family鈥檚 wineries in California鈥檚 Sonoma coastal region鈥攁s 鈥渁 trial by fire.鈥

鈥淭he 鈥04 vintage was a harvest when we had two weeks of 105-degree temperatures. The fruit was shriveling on the vines. It鈥檚 the only vintage where I actually cried. I tell people there鈥檚 a tear in every bottle of our 鈥04 Pinot Noirs.鈥

Stackhouse said she stays 鈥減asted to the weather forecast鈥 in order to harvest the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes in La Crema鈥檚 estate vineyards when their sugar content is nicely balanced between sweetness and acidity. After 15 days, when the juice is fermented, it鈥檚 put in barrels. Six months later her next challenge begins.

She and her team blind taste through 250 lots (a 鈥渓ot鈥 being wine made from grapes in one section of a vineyard), each of which tastes different. Individual team members blend wine from different lots, and the group then blind tastes through these trial blends, taking two months to fine tune a 鈥渟tyle direction鈥 for each of La Crema鈥檚 blends. Stackhouse explained: 

鈥淲e always want to make a balanced blend, but we ask ourselves, 鈥楧o we want one with a little more structure, or should we go with one that鈥檚 more fruit-forward, more plush in the mid-palate?鈥欌 

Though her own palate has been refined by 16 years of making wine, Stackhouse 鈥渉ates the idea that wine seems mysterious and unapproachable. Taste descriptors are just a way to talk about wine with people. There are no wrong answers. Taste buds are all different. I wish people would just relax and have fun exploring wine together.鈥

In fact, that鈥檚 how Stackhouse got started. No alcohol of any kind was served in her family鈥檚 home.

The 2010 vintage will be Stackhouse鈥檚 last as the winemaker for La Crema. She鈥檚 been promoted to Pinot Noir wine master, overseeing six of the Kendall Jackson brands that produce Pinot Noir. 

鈥淚 love making a product that acknowledges the quality dimension of life,鈥 she said. 鈥淲hen you鈥檙e having a glass of wine and really enjoying that moment, you leave behind life鈥檚 quantity dimension鈥攁ll the things you stress about. Wine contributes to those moments in life that are really special. I want to make wine for the rest of my life.鈥

Learn more about La Crema wines at www.lacrema.com.